Tree Removal
Full removals of dead, storm-damaged or badly placed trees, including tight residential blocks.
Learn more →Reducing weight and reach on trees that have outgrown the block, without wrecking them.
Lopping is heavier canopy work than pruning: reducing the overall weight, height or spread of a tree that has got too big for where it is standing. The classic South West job is a marri or lemon-scented gum planted three metres from the house in the 1980s that now sits over the roof line, drops limbs onto the carport and fills the gutters every autumn.
The right version of that job is reduction to sound points — cutting back to a lateral branch that can take over as the new leader, leaving the tree with a balanced shape and the ability to seal the wound. The wrong version is topping: a flat cut across the crown at whatever height the bucket reached, leaving stubs that die back and sprout a mass of shoots attached to nothing but bark. Those shoots grow fast, look fine for three years, and then start failing in exactly the weather you were worried about.
Marri and jarrah are slow to compartmentalise a large wound. A badly placed cut on a mature marri will sit open and bleed, and decay follows. Peppermint responds to heavy cutting with dense regrowth that makes the canopy heavier and more sail-like — precisely the wrong outcome on a coastal block at Dunsborough or Broadwater where the afternoon sea breeze is the force you are trying to reduce. Reducing end weight on the windward limbs works far better than shortening everything uniformly.
Reduction buys years on a tree with a manageable defect: a heavy over-extended limb, a canopy leaning toward the house, a tree that has simply outgrown a courtyard. It does not fix a decayed trunk, a lifted root plate or a torn union through the main stem. If that is what is in front of us, removal is the honest recommendation and we will say so rather than sell you a reduction that postpones the problem by two seasons.
Lighter work — crown lifting over a driveway, deadwooding, clearance from the roof — sits under tree pruning. Fire-driven limb work around a rural house is covered on the firebreaks page.
For pricing factors see the cost guide, or ring (08) 9785 0207 and describe the tree. Crews run across Bunbury, Busselton, Margaret River and surrounds.
Full removals of dead, storm-damaged or badly placed trees, including tight residential blocks.
Learn more →Crown lifting, deadwooding and clearance pruning done to keep the tree, not just cut it back.
Learn more →Grinding the stump below ground level so you can turf, pave or plant over it.
Learn more →Stump and root plate dug out entirely where footings, pipes or a new build need the ground clear.
Learn more →Clearing house pads, paddock regrowth and overgrown lifestyle blocks, within the clearing rules.
Learn more →Firebreaks, fuel-load reduction and overhanging limb work to meet your shire's annual notice.
Learn more →Fallen limbs, split trunks and trees on roofs after a South West front comes through.
Learn more →Done to a plan, no. Reducing end weight on over-extended limbs and cutting back to a suitable lateral leaves the tree able to seal and re-grow in a controlled way. Done as topping — cutting the crown off at a convenient height and leaving stubs — it is genuinely damaging and creates weakly attached regrowth that fails later.
Most South West trees that need reduction are on a three to five year cycle, not an annual one. Fast regrowth after a heavy cut usually means the cut was too heavy. If a tree needs cutting back every year to stay acceptable, the honest conversation is about whether it is the right tree for that spot.
In Western Australia you may generally prune back to the boundary line what overhangs your property, but the tree stays the neighbour's and the cut timber is theirs. Bad pruning that damages or kills their tree can land you in trouble, so it is worth a conversation with them first and a crew that cuts to sound points.
Late winter into early spring for most eucalypts, ahead of the summer stress period and before the firebreak rush. Avoid heavy reduction in the middle of a hot dry summer, when a suddenly exposed trunk can sunburn and a stressed tree is slower to seal. Storm-damage work, obviously, happens whenever it happens.